Puntius fasciatus (Melon Barb)

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Family: Cyprinidae

Distribution: Puntius fasciatus, better known as Melon Barb, is an Asian freshwater species endemic to Goa, Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu in southern India, where it is distributed from the Kanyakumari district to the Maharashtra state in the north.  The Melon Barb is predominantly found in flowing rivers.   

PH: 6.0 – 6.5

Temperature: 22°C – 26C (72 – 79F)

Hardness: 7 – 17 dH

Description: Puntius fasciatus can reach a maximum length of 15 cm.  This species can range in colour depending on location: fish from highland areas are typically orange-coloured, while those at lower altitudes are normally purple or reddish.  Females are larger and fuller; males are more colourful and have a red or black colouration in their dorsal fin.  The Melon Barb can live for up to six years.    

Diet: Puntius fasciatus, an omnivore, is not a fussy eater. In an aquarium environment, you should feed this species a quality spirulina flake, along with bloodworms, brine shrimp or Daphnia as a special treat.  Quality live foods will bring out its best colouration.

Breeding: Puntius fasciatus has very similar breeding requirements to Puntius everetti.  This species will spawn at daybreak and you should check the tank in the mornings for evidence of eggs.  The Melon Barb, a group spawner, does not display parental care; remove the adults immediately once the eggs appear.  Provide a spawning mop or Java moss to your breeding tank.  The fry will hatch in 24 – 48 hours and can be fed on Infusoria intially.

Comments: You should tank this species in a tank with a capacity of at least 85 litres.  Replace its natural environment by adding some water movement; this species resides in slow-flowing streams.  Decorate your tank with bogwood, twisted roots, floating vegetation and a few aquatic plants.  This active species is suitable for beginners.

Article/Books:

Recommended Compatible Species: The Melon Barb is a lively schooling fish that should be kept in groups of at least 8 – 10; males will display a vibrant colouration when competing for the attention of females.  You could house this species with peaceful species, including some tetras, Rainbowfish, Anabantoids, Catfish and Loaches.

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Hyphessobrycon negodagua

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Family: Characidae

Distribution: Hyphessobrycon negodagua inhabits the upper Paraguaçú River basin, South America.

PH: 6.0 – 7.5 pH

Temperature: 22 – 28 °C (72 – 82 °F)

Hardness: 2 – 15 dH

Description: Hyphessobrycon negodagua is a small Tetra, reaching only 2.8cm when mature.  The family is generally peaceful, active and non-aggressive and there is no reason why Hyphessobrycon negodagua should be any different.  They are good additions to any community or species-specific tank.

Unlike all but one other Hyphessobrycon species (that one being Hyphessobrycon taurocephalus) it does not have an adipose fin.  The mature males can also be used to classify Hyphessobrycon negodagua as they have a high percentage of dark spots on the rear section of their bodies and by areas of white colouration on the tips of the anal and dorsal fins.

As they are uncommon in the hobby, there is a lack of information such as social behaviours.

Diet: The Hyphessobrycon species enjoy omnivorous diets.  Your Hyphessobrycon negodagua will benefit from a diet that is primarily flakes or pellets with occasional live foods (such as bloodworms or mosquito larvae) as treats.

Breeding: Due to its rarity, successful captivity-bred reports have yet to be published.  If you manage to find a pair and want to try it yourself, it is suggested you follow the general Hyphessobrycon method.

First separate a male and a female (at least one year old) into two conditioning tanks.  Feed them live foods for about three weeks before introducing them into the breeding tank.  They should breed within 24 hours, but give them three days and, if no eggs appear, repeat the conditioning process.

Remove the parents once they have spawned or you may find they’ve eaten all the eggs.  They will hatch after 24 hours and the subsequent free-swimming fry should be fed Infusoria.  Once they are big enough, start them on baby brine shrimp.

Err on the side of caution and keep the eggs of Hyphessobrycon negodagua in as much dark as possible as it is unknown whether they are light-sensitive or not.

Comments: Hyphessobrycon negodagua is uncommon in the hobby and therefore there is limited information available.  Consequently, information pertaining to the Hyphessobrycon species in general has been included.

Article/Books:


Recommended Compatible Species: They should live happily with other Tetra species (particularly the Neon Tetra and Black Tetra). They also should be good tank mates with DiscusApistogramma‘s like Apistogramma Cacatouides and Apistogramma BorelliCorydoras Catfish  (particularly Corydoras Sterbai and Corydoras aeneusAngelfishClown loach, the common Guppy and Platy and most Gourami (such as the Blue Gourami and Dwarf Gourami like the Honey Gourami) Also should live happily with most Danio (particularly the Zebra Danio and Pearl Danio)  and also many Killifish could make great tank mates.

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Crenicichla saxatilis (Ring Tail Pike Cichlid)

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216099 Crenicichla saxatilis (Ring Tail Pike Cichlid) Crenicichla saxatilis (Ring Tail Pike Cichlid)

Crenicichla saxatilis (Ring Tail Pike Cichlid)
Information will be coming soon

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Hemigrammus tridens

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Family: Characidae

Distribution: The upper Tapajos River basin in Brazil, South America is the home of Hemigrammus skolioplatus.

PH: 6.5 – 7.0 pH

Temperature: 24 – 28°C (75 – 82°F)

Hardness: 5 – 8 dH

Description: Some of the smallest of the Hemigrammus species, the Hemigrammus tridens will hit a length of 2cm.  The Hemigrammus species are generally peaceful, sociable, active fish which are perfect additions to community tanks.  They prefer to be kept in shoals in 6 or more.

There is still very little information available regarding Hemigrammus tridens.  Therefore, data such as specific social habits, sexual dimorphia and colouring is unknown.

Diet: Hemigrammus tridens will enjoy an omnivorous diet of flakes and live foods such as brine shrimp and Tubifex.  Cut up the food so that it can fit the small mouths of the species.

Breeding: Due to their uncommonness within the hobby, there is limited information available regarding breeding Hemigrammus tridens; therefore, the general method accepted for the Hemigrammus species has been included.

Breeders should separate a male and female Hemigrammus tridens from both the shoal and from one another.  These two fish should be around one year old.  Condition them on insect larvae.  A breeding tank consisting of peat-filtered water, dense plantation, natural lighting (only) and a slightly higher temperature should be set up.  Introduce the duo into the breeding tank.  If spawning does not occur within three days, repeat the process.  If it fails a second time, try switching one of the partners.

The parents should be removed once they’ve spawned because they are carnivorous and will eat the eggs.  The newly-hatched fry should be fed on very small food particles such as Infusoria, micro-organisms, baby brine shrimp and flake foods.

Comments: Use a general Hemigrammus set up that includes some plantation around the edges and back, whilst leaving a large open area in the middle for swimming space.  Some light-diffusing, floating plants may also be beneficial.

Due to the rarity of Hemigrammus tridens, some information pertaining to the Hemigrammus species in general has been included.

Article/Books:


Recommended Compatible Species: They should live happily with other Tetra species (particularly the Neon Tetra and Black Tetra). They also should be good tank mates with DiscusApistogramma‘s like Apistogramma Cacatouides and Apistogramma BorelliCorydorasCatfish  (particularly Corydoras Sterbai and Corydoras aeneusAngelfishClown loach, the common Guppy and Platy and most Gourami(such as the Blue Gouramiand Dwarf Gourami like the Honey Gourami) Also should live happily with most Danio (particularly the Zebra Danioand Pearl Danio)  and also many Killifish could make great tank mates.

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Chilodus punctatus (Spotted Headstander)

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Family: Chilodontidae

Distribution: Chilodus punctatus, better known as the Spotted Headstander, is a freshwater species distributed throughout the Amazon River basin, Apeú River, Pará State, Suriname, Guyana, and the western Orinoco River basin.

PH: 6.0 – 7.0

Temperature: 24°C – 28°C (75 – 84F)

Hardness: 10 dH

Description: Chilodus punctatus can grow to a maximum length of 8 cm.  This silver-gold coloured species has a dark patch on each of its large scales, giving it a unique, spotted appearance.  It has one stripe that goes along its body and several dark spots on its dorsal fin.  Females have a more rounded body during spawning.  This species has a “head-down” way of swimming, giving it its common name: Spotted Headstander.

Diet: Chilodus punctatus can be fed worms, vegetable-based foods, insects, plant matter and crustaceans.  You should bear in mind this species’ mouth is very small, so all prepared foods should be small and easily digestible.

Breeding: You will know when this species is spawning because it will lose its spotted marks.  These will be replaced by one or two dark patches between the eyes and dorsal area.  After spawning, the female will shed 3 – 5 eggs; each egg is only 1.5 mm in size.  Once you see these eggs appear you should instantly remove the parents from the tank.  Breeding and raising this species is not too difficult and the fry can be fed brine shrimp as soon as they have hatched.

Comments: Make sure you provide plenty of dense vegetation to simulate Chilodus punctatus’ natural environment.  This species will require plenty of hiding spaces given its timid, peaceful nature.  It is best to house a school of 5 – 6 Spotted Headstanders in an 80 litre tank.  This species is suitable for newcomers to the hobby, but careful attention should be paid to water conditions.  Sudden changes in water quality – or a failure to keep the water clean – may result in disease and eventual death.

Article/Books:

Recommended Compatible Species: Chilodus punctatus can be housed in a one-species tank or with other small, peaceful fish.  They will live happily with most Tetra species (particularly the Neon Tetra and Black Tetra). They are also great tank mates with DiscusApistogramma‘s like Apistogramma Cacatouides and Apistogramma BorelliCorydoras Catfish  (particularly Corydoras Sterbai and Corydoras aeneusAngelfishClown loach, the common Guppy and Platy and most Gourami (such as the Blue Gourami and Dwarf Gourami like the Honey Gourami) Also can live happily with most Danio (particularly the Zebra Danio and Pearl Danio)  and also many Killifish make great tank mates.

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Amphilophus robertsoni (Robert's Cichlid)

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P38120 Amphilophus robertsoni (Robert's Cichlid) Amphilophus robertsoni (Robert's Cichlid)

Amphilophus robertsoni (Robert’s Cichlid)
Information will be coming soon

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Caridina cf. cantonensis (Tiger Shrimp)

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Family: Caridina

Distribution: The Tiger Shrimp, one of the more popular Caridinas, originates from Southeast Asia.

PH: 6.0 – 7.5

Temperature: 20 – 24°C (68 – 75°F)

Hardness: 3 – 10 dKH

Description:  The Tiger Shrimp has a yellow head and black tail, along with black stripes that stretch along its body.  Males reach a smallish 2.5 cm in length; females are slightly larger at 3 cm.  Mature Tiger Shrimp can display a wide range of colours ranging from green to blue – even red.  Sexing can be very difficult given that males and females look almost identical, but there is one key difference: the round undercarriage under the female’s body.  The male Tiger Shrimp has a straight line in this area, as well as a slightly narrower body. The Tiger Shrimp is one of the most aesthetically pleasing shrimps and, as a result, is very popular within the hobby.

Diet: The Tiger shrimp will eat regular fish food pellet, flake, algae and bio-film.  It will even enjoy fresh vegetables from time to time.

Breeding: Unlike the Ninja Shrimp, the Tiger Shrimp has no larval stage.  The female will produce around 20 – 25 hatchlings and, once hatched, it can be as little as a week before the female is again capable of possessing eggs.  The Tiger Shrimp is very easily bred and, therefore, an excellent species for beginners.

Comments: You can house a colony of Tiger Shrimp in a 10 – 20 gallon tank.  Keep the water clean and use a sponge filter to stop the tiny babies from being sucked into the filter.

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Recommended Compatible Species: Keep Tiger Shrimp in a “shrimp only” tank; they are small and a prime target for predators.

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Brycinus longipinnus (Longfin Tetra)

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Family: Alestidae

Distribution: Brycinus longipinnus, commonly known as the Longfin Tetra, is a species distributed in big rivers – in the upper and lower reaches – and in estuarine zones; it is the only Brycinus species to reside in small streams and rivers.  It is found in Africa’s Atlantic border, from Gambia to the Democratic Republic of Congo.

PH: 6.0 – 8.0

Temperature: 22°C – 26°C (72 – 79F)

Hardness: 5 – 19 dH

Description: Brycinus longipinnus has a maximum length of 12 cm in length and can be expected to live for 3 – 5 years. It has a red eye, silver sides and big scales.  This species has a nice, subtle blue-green colouration – with a hint of yellow, depending on the lighting – and a distinctive, black horizontal line that extends from about halfway to the base of its tail.  The male may have a long dorsal fin that can stretch as far back as beyond the tail.

Diet: The Longfin Tetra is omnivorous and will enjoy flake food as a base food. You should supplement this diet with blood worms, brine shrimp and other live foods to maintain optimal health.  This species appears to feed mainly at the surface.

Breeding: Before attempting to breed this species, you should feed the adults a live-food diet.  When ready to spawn, males will chase the females around the tank and spawn when light first hits the tank in the morning.  The eggs will be scattered around everywhere.  You might consider providing fresh, softened water and removing the adults when you can see the eggs.  The fry, when hatched, have small mouths, and will require infusoria for a few days before accepting newly hatched brine shrimp.  This fish is very hard to breed in captivity.

Comments: The Longfin Tetra should be given plenty of swimming space and housed in at least a 30 gallon tank.  Keep your tank clean and well oxygenated, while maintaining plenty of water changes.  Make sure you provide plenty of hiding spaces for this species to feel comfortable.

Article/Books:

Recommended Compatible Species: Brycinus longipinnus can be kept in a one-species tank in groups of at least five.  This species can be housed with most Tetra species (particularly the Neon Tetra and Black Tetra). They are also great tank mates with DiscusApistogramma‘s like Apistogramma Cacatouides and Apistogramma BorelliCorydoras Catfish  (particularly Corydoras Sterbai and Corydoras aeneusAngelfishClown loach, the common Guppy and Platy and most Gourami (such as the Blue Gouramiand Dwarf Gourami like the Honey Gourami) Also can live happily with most Danio (particularly the Zebra Danio and Pearl Danio)  and also many Killifish make great tank mates.

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Hyphessobrycon duragenys

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Family: Characidae

Distribution: The river basins of the upper Tietê and Paraíba do Sul in South America are where Hyphessobrycon duragenys choses to make its home.

PH: 6 – 7.5 pH

Temperature: 23 – 28°C (74 – 82°F)

Hardness: 2 – 15 dH

Description: Little is known about the specifics of Hyphessobrycon duragenys, other than it is a larger member of the Tetra family, being just shy of 7cm when mature.  If he is anything like his Hyphessobrycon relatives, Hyphessobrycon duragenys will be peaceful, active and non-territorial.  It will also do best when kept in shoals of at least 6.

Diet: The omnivorous diet suits Hyphessobrycon species and there’s no indication this specific fish is any different.  Ensure that quality flake foods are the staple of the diet, and use frozen or live foods as treats once or twice a week.

Breeding: There is little known about breeding in the tank, considering how rare this fish is in the hobby.  Therefore, it is recommended that the breeding method used by the majority of the Hyphessobrycon species is utilised when attempting with Hyphessobrycon duragenys.

Two conditioning tanks should be established to house a one-year-old male and a one-year-old female.  These should be conditioned on Drosophila and insect larvae for two-to-three weeks, before the duo can be introduced into a 38L breeding tank.  To set up a breeding tank, include many fine-leaved plants and a soft filtration system, but do not use substrate.  Use water with a pH of 5.5 – 6.5, a dH of 2 – 4, and a temperature of 24 – 26°C (75 – 79°F).  It is unknown if the eggs are light-sensitive, so it is best to keep them out of direct sunlight just in case.

It should take three days for the pair to spawn.  If no eggs appear, recondition them.  The eggs will appear in the leaves of the plants and the parents should be removed immediately after spawning as they are cannibalistic.  A little over twenty-four hours after being laid, the eggs will hatch.  The fry will appear few days later and should be fed on an initial diet of micro-organisms and baby Brine, and crushed flake ten days later.

The eggs and fry require weekly, partial water changes as they are susceptible to illness in poor water conditions.

Comments: Hyphessobrycon duragenys is rare in the hobby and therefore information pertaining to the Hyphessobrycon species in general has been included.

If this species is as easy to look after as most of its relatives, it will be perfectly suited for anyone of any experience level.

Article/Books:


Recommended Compatible Species: They should live happily with other Tetra species (particularly the Neon Tetra and Black Tetra). They also should be good tank mates with DiscusApistogramma‘s like Apistogramma Cacatouides and Apistogramma BorelliCorydoras Catfish  (particularly Corydoras Sterbai and Corydoras aeneusAngelfishClown loach, the common Guppy and Platy and most Gourami (such as the Blue Gourami and Dwarf Gourami like the Honey Gourami) Also should live happily with most Danio (particularly the Zebra Danio and Pearl Danio)  and also many Killifish could make great tank mates.

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Triportheus signatus

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Family: Characidae

Distribution: Triportheus signatus is a benthopelagic freshwater species found in South America’s Parnaiba River basin and in some of Brazil’s north eastern coastal drainages.

PH: 6.0 – 7.5

Temperature: 24°C – 27C (75 – 81F)

Hardness: 1 – 18

Description: Triportheus signatus can reach a maximum length of about 16 cm.  This deep-bodied species has a dark snout and 3 – 4 dark longitudinal stripes present on its dorsal-lateral portion. It also has an upturned mouth and nostrils that are very close together.    

Diet: Triportheus signatus uses its upturned mouth to feed from the surface.  It will eat flakes and insects, but it will probably also accept bloodworms, brine shrimp and mosquito larvae. 

Breeding: Like so many members of its genus, there is not a great deal of information available on the breeding habits of Triportheus signatus.  It appears it is yet to be bred in an aquarium environment.

Comments: Triportheus signatus should be housed in a tank at least 180 litres in volume or larger.  You should have plenty of large, open swimming areas near the top of your tank.  Do not add floating plants to your tank as they will simply be obstacles.  Make sure you put in several hiding spaces in the form of driftwood, plants and rocks.  This species appears to be quite rare within the aquarium hobby and is therefore recommended to those with experience.

Article/Books:

Recommended Compatible Species: Triportheus signatus, much like Triportheus rotundatus, should probably be housed with peaceful, middle-bottom dwelling species.  

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